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Building a Fire Pit
Build a circular masonry fire pit for not much more than the cost of a flimsy store-bought fire ring. With tips from a veteran bricklayer, we’ll show you how.
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine
COMPLEXITY
$100 - $500
Similar Projects
Meet a pro
Doug Montzka, of Montkza
Concrete & Masonry in St.
Paul, MN, has been in the concrete
and masonry business
for 23 years. “I started getting
requests for brick fire pits a
few years ago. It isn’t rocket
science, but there are a few
tricks to doing the job
Backyard fire pits are still all the rage, and
for good reason. There’s
nothing like a
crackling fire to draw friends and family together.
could set some stones around a hole or spend a hundred
bucks on a
steel fire ring. But if you spend twice that, you can build a handsome
brick fire pit
to create a gathering space in your backyard. We spent
$250 on this
fire pit. It’s maintenance free and easy to clean out, and it will
last forever.
If you’ve ever
wanted to learn to lay brick, a backyard fire pit is an excellent
project to
start with. Even if your brickwork isn’t perfect, the fire
pit will still
look great. We asked Doug Montzka, of Montkza Concrete &
Masonry in St. Paul, MN,
to show us some tricks and tools of the trade. Set
aside several
days to complete your fire pit: First you’ll pour the footing and
let it set up. Then you’ll mortar the bricks into place.
Keys to a better fire pit
A well-built masonry fire pit is rock solid, safe to use, and will easily last for as long as you own your house.
Dig the pit
Photo 1: Mark out the pit
Set the larger form in position and spray paint around it. Dig a
hole about 8 in. deep and 3 in. larger in diameter than the form.
Photo 2: Level the pit
Check the bottom of the hole with a level. Remove high spots
by scraping off soil rather than digging. That way, you won't
loosen the underlying soil. Compact the soil with a hand tamper
or a 4x4 post.
Before digging, call your utility
companies (dial 811; for
more info, go to ) to check the location of
buried utility lines. Also check the
fire pit code in your
area. Most require a fire pit to be 25
ft. away from any
structures and overhanging trees. Think
about how the
prevailing winds blow through your
backyard. Don’t
locate your pit upwind of your patio or
where the smoke
will blow into your windows or those of
your neighbors.
A 3-ft.-diameter fire pit creates enough
room for a good
fire, yet keeps everyone close enough to
chat (and complies
with most codes). To make measuring the
pit and pouring the concrete footing easy, we used two
cardboard concrete form tubes (purchased
from a concrete supply company).
You could also make your own
forms by screwing together 1/8-in.
hardboard. Rip a 4 x 8-ft. sheet
into four 8-in.-wide strips. Carefully
bend and screw two strips together to
create a 36-in.-diameter circle, and use
the other two to make a 48-in.-diameter
Mark the outside edge of the pit
(Photo 1). Then shovel out the soil to a
depth of 8 in. (Photo 2). Don’t disturb
the underlying
Pour a sturdy footing
Photo 3: Stake the forms
If the forms aren't quite level, raise one
end and drive a screw through the stake.
If the forms aren't completely round,
reposition the stakes.
Photo 4: Add the rebar
Bend rebar into half circles and tie them together with wire to make a ring. Fill the
forms halfway. Press the ring into the concrete, making sure it doesn't touch the sides
of the forms.
Photo 5: Finish the footing
Shovel in the remaining concrete until the forms are filled.
Recheck level, hammering the forms down if necessary, and
smooth the top of the footer. Let the concrete set overnight.
The concrete footing will create a
stable base for the pit walls and keep
the sides of your pit from cracking as
the ground moves over time. Stake
the forms (Photo 3) and mix up ten
80-lb. bags of concrete mix (sold at
home centers) according to the manufacturer’s directions. If you’re using
forms, stake them so they’re nice and
round. Fill the forms
halfway and press a rebar ring into the
concrete for strength
(Photo 4). Finish filling the forms to the top and tap the tubes
gently with a sledgehammer until the
concrete mix is level.
Smooth the top of the footing (Photo 5). Let the concrete
completely set up overnight
and then remove the forms.
Dry-set the firebrick liner
Photo 6: Dry-set the firebrick
Adjust the spacing between bricks so you won't have to cut the
last brick to fit (cutting firebrick isn't easy). Mark the position of
every brick on the footing.
Because regular clay brick can crack at
high temperatures,
we’re using firebrick (also called
“refractory” brick) to line
the inside of the pit walls. Firebrick
is a dense brick that’s
kilned to withstand high temperatures.
It’s larger, thicker
and wider than regular brick, and you
can find it at most
brickyards. Firebrick is more expensive,
but it will stand up to nightly
fires for years to come. You’ll need 25
firebricks for a 3-ft.
diameter pit.
Because firebrick is so dense, it’s
tougher to split than
regular brick. “Soldiering” the brick
(standing it on end)
minimizes the amount of splitting and
lets you easily accommodate
the curve of the pit. You’ll only need
to split four
firebricks (use the technique shown in Photo 9), which you’ll
place across from one another around the
pit to create draw holes for oxygen for your fire. After you split your
firebricks,
dry-set them in
place on top of the footing (Photo 6).
Mortar the firebrick
Photo 7: Mortar the firebrick
Butter a thin layer of cement on the footer and position your first brick.
Butter the second brick and butt it against the first. Continue around
the circle checking level side-to-side and back-to-front as you go.
Photo 8: Create air holes
Leave gaps in the firebrick in four spots and then fill them with
half bricks. These gaps are "draw holes" that feed air to the fire.
Prop up the half bricks until the mortar sets.
Firebrick is mortared with refractory
cement, which, unlike
regular masonry mortar, can withstand
high heat. Refractory
cement comes premixed in a bucket and
has the consistency of peanut butter.
A margin trowel makes it easier to scoop
cement out of
the bucket and butter the bricks. A tuck
pointer is useful
for cleaning up the joints.
Work with four bricks at a time. The
secret is to trowel
the cement on thin, like you’re
spreading peanut butter on
toast, and use the tightest joints you
can (Photo 7). Continue
mortaring the firebrick around the pit,
placing the half
bricks for the draw holes at four
opposite points around the
ring (Photo 8). Check for level across the pit and the vertical
level of the
bricks as you go.
Complete the outside walls with face brick
Photo 9: Split 80 bricks in half
Cup the brick in your hand, keeping your fingers below the top edge
of the brick. (Our mason doesn't use gloves, but we suggest you do!)
Give the brick a solid tap (a very solid tap for firebrick) on the outside
edge near the center hole. Avoid hitting your hand. Repeat 79 times.
Photo 10: Set the face brick
Lay a thick bed of mortar and let it harden for 15 minutes. Then lay
3/8 in. of fresh mortar and begin setting brick. Butter one side of
each brick before you set it in place.
Photo 11: Work in sections
Working on one-third of the pit at a time, check the level of each
course and tap down the bricks as necessary. Stagger the joints
between courses for strength.
Photo 12: Strike the joints
After you finish each section of face brick, use a jointer to smooth
("strike" or "tool") the joints before the mortar dries too much. The
mortar is ready to strike if you press your finger into it and the indentation
remains. Striking gives the wall a uniform, polished look.
We used SW (“severe weathering”) face
brick (also called
“common” or “building” brick) to line
outside pit walls. If your climate
doesn’t include freeze/thaw
cycles, you can use MW (“moderate
weathering”) building
brick. Home centers and brickyards carry
a large variety
of brick. You’ll need 80 face bricks for
a 3-ft.-diameter pit.
Face brick with holes (“cored”) is easy
to split with a brick
hammer (Photo 9). It’s easier to form the curve of the pit walls
with half bricks. You’ll lay three
courses of face brick and
mortar them together with Type N mortar
mix (sold in 80-lb.
bag at home centers, and you’ll need
about five bags).
Because face brick is smaller than
firebrick, you’ll need
to make up the size difference as you
lay your three courses
of face brick. The difference between
the height of your firebrick and the total height of three stacked face bricks
will determine the width of your mortar
beds between
courses. Dry-set the face brick, marking
where each course
of face brick has to hit the firebrick
to make the third course
of face brick level with the firebrick.
To keep your mortar joints between
courses a reasonable
width, first lay a 2- to 3-in.-thick bed
of mortar right on top
of the footing. Let it set up slightly
(15 minutes) and smooth
out the top. Then, working on one-third
of the pit at a time,
mortar each course of face brick into
place, leaving a 1/4-in.
gap between the firebrick and the face
brick (Photo 10). Level
the brick between courses, tapping the
bricks down when
necessary (Photo 11). Remember to leave the draft holes
as you mortar each section of face brick
and smooth out the
finished joints
(Photo 12).
Finish off the top lip
Photo 13: Mortar the brick caps
Lay a 3/8-in. bed of mortar across 10 to 12 bricks at a time. Lay
the bricks on edge and butter the face of each brick on the outside
edge as you go.
Photo 14: Fill gaps
Add a small amount of mortar to the joints to fill any gaps. Check
level frequently and tap gently with a brick hammer to adjust the
spacing. Leave a 1-in. overhang on the outside to allow for rain to
drip off. Once all the bricks have been mortared in place, strike the
joints for a smooth, finished look.
Finish the pit with a matching
“row-lock” cap using regular
face brick set on edge. You’ll need
about 40 face bricks for
this cap, which will help protect the
wall joints from rain,
keep sparks contained and give you a
nice ledge to warm
your feet on. We used brick, but you
could use natural stone
for a different look. Work with 10 to 12
bricks at a time. Lay
a 3/8-in. bed of mortar, then butter
each brick and press it
into place (Photo 13). Work your way around the circle,
any gaps with mortar and checking level
and placement
frequently (Photo 14). Smooth the finished joints with a
Give the cement and mortar a week to
cure completely
before lighting a fire in your pit. Pour
a few inches of gravel
on the pit’s floor for drainage and
you’re ready for your first
wienie roast.
Required Tools for this Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
Cordless drill
Wheelbarrow
Safety glasses
Tuckpointing tool
You'll also need a margin trowel, a mason's trowel, a concave jointer, a concrete float and a brick hammer.
Required Materials for this Project
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time.
Here's a list.
36 in. cardboard concrete form
48 in. cardboard concrete form (or for less money substitute a 4x8 sheet of hardboard to
make both forms)
Ten 80-lb. bags of concrete mix
Two 10 ft. lengths of 3/8-in. rebar
25 firebricks
One half-gallon bucket of refractory cement (sold at a brickyard)
120 face bricks
Five 80-lb. bags of Type N mortar mix
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& 2015 HOME SERVICE PUBLICATIONS, INC.皇家守卫军pit of fire 这关普通模式怎么过图解_百度知道
皇家守卫军pit of fire 这关普通模式怎么过图解
提问者采纳
不要让他跑了，不要让他们去报信，一次搞定！杀了他以后捡他的长枪！然后冲过去用A上上A上下A这样的基本招打他！拿飞标都能把他弄死！尽量一次搞定：尽量一个一个的一次搞定首先你不要动，最好藏在墙后！这关需要注意的是，那家伙留着最后收拾）！嘿嘿。然后等一个哨兵走到最中间有4个石像那时你就用毒标射的他中毒，不过你最好在局域网里先看好柱子倒塌的方向。杀第2个哨兵也尽量别让他去报信，去杀底下的另一个哨兵（注意先不要去杀哨兵长。最后就只剩一个哨兵长了，还有如果每血可以把钟乳（就是那柱子）打烂吃里面的血
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Pit bull saves Oklahoma family from house fire
A 10-year-old pit bull terrier is being hailed a hero after she saved a Lincoln County family from their burning home.
Early Tuesday, smoke and flames filled the family's home near Wellston.Rhonda Westenberger said she and her sister, Evelyn, were asleep, unaware of the danger, until their pit bull, named Baby, sprang to action.The women said the dog would not stop barking and pouncing on them until the women woke up and when they did, they had just seconds to escape."There were flames shooting down the hallway," said Westenberger. "If Baby hadn't woken Evelyn up, I don't think either one of us would have come out of it."The women escaped, but their other five dogs were scared and stuck inside, so once again, Baby came to the rescue."There was one hiding underneath the bed," said family member Charles Land. "Baby actually went in there grabbed it by the neck and drug it outside."The family's home of 17 years and everything in it is gone, but the family says their hope is not lost."[Baby has] always come across to us as one of the family and this just proves it," said Land."It brings my spirit up a lot to see the dogs," said Westenberger. "I'm so proud of her. She is my hero. She's the hero for all of us."Rhonda Westenberger's sister Evelyn suffers from congestive heart failure and is recovering at Midwest City Regional.Firefighters believe the fire started in the home's dryer and quickly spread.
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